July 11, 1793. Pain And Perplexity.

July 11, 1793. Daily excerpts from the Journal of Alexander MacKenzie on his overland Voyage to The Pacific Ocean. Day 64.

     “I passed a most uncomfortable night: the first part of it I was tormented with flies, and in the latter deluged with rain. In the morning the weather cleared, and as soon as our clothes were dried, we proceeded through a morass. This part of the country had been laid waste by fire, and the fallen trees added to the pain and perplexity of our way. A high, rocky ridge stretched along our left.”

     “Though the rain returned, we continued our progress till noon, when our guide took to some trees for shelter. We then spread our oil-cloth, and, with some difficulty, made a fire.”

     In the 18th century, oilcloth was one of very few flexible, waterproof materials that were available. It is, or was a close-woven cotton duck or linen cloth with coatings of boiled linseed oil that make it waterproof. It was used wherever a waterproof covering was needed; tents, tarpaulins and weatherproof clothing.

Picture 1. Oil-Cloth in use. (Photo Keith H. Burgess)

     “At half-past three we came in sight of a lake; the land at the same time gradually rising to a range of mountains whose tops were covered with snow,”

     This is today known as Tsacha Lake. The trail follows the south side of the lake. There was a fishing lodge and an airstrip built here at some point, however the lodge and all buildings are apparently abandoned due to financial reasons.

Picture 2. The abandoned Tsacha Lake Lodge.

Picture 3.  MacKenzie Trail Lodge sign at the abandoned site.

     “At five in the afternoon we were so wet and cold (for it had at intervals continued to rain) that we were compelled to stop for the night...Our conductors now began to complain of our mode of travelling, (sic) and mentioned their intention of leaving us; and my interpreters, who were equally dissatisfied, added to our perplexity by their conduct.”

       These hardy men are Canadian Voyageurs, and paddling and poling a canoe across the wilds of Canada is their thing. Risking their lives to run a cascading rapid is their thing. But carrying ninety pounds on their backs for 30 or 40 miles day after day through tangled underbrush and burnt timber while being soaked to the skin is not their thing. And to top it all off, MacKenzie decides he must further reduce everyone’s food rations.

     “Besides these circumstances, and the apprehension that the distance from the sea might be greater than I imagined, it became a matter of real necessity that we should begin to diminish the consumption of our provisions, and to subsist upon two-thirds of our allowance; a preposition which was as unwelcome to my people, as it was necessary to put into immediate practice.”