Excerpts from the Journal of Alexander Mackenzie’s overland journey to the Pacific Ocean in 1793 (by way of the Peace River).
“It rained very hard in the early part of the night, but the weather was clear towards morning, when we embarked at our usual hour. As the current threatened to be very strong, Mr. Mackay, the two hunters, and myself, went on shore, in order to lighten the canoe…we found a beaten path, and before we had walked a mile, fell in with a herd of buffaloes, with their young ones...sent our dog after the herd, and a calf was soon secured by him...we heard two reports of firearms from the canoe...a signal for me to return...immediately hastened down the hill, with our veal…”
He has a lot of hungry men to feed.
“....the canoe was...at the foot of a very strong rapid, and that as several waterfalls appeared up the river, we should be obliged to unload and carry.”
They have reached the canyon above present day Hudson’s Hope.
“Here are several islands of solid rock...which have been worn away by the constant force of the current...presenting, as it were, so many large tables, each of which supported by a pedestal...they are very elevated for such a situation, and afford an asylum for geese, which were at this time breeding on them.”
These islands and rock formations can be seen at Alwin Holland Memorial Park.
“Til we came to the foot of the most rapid cascade we had hitherto seen...and here I could not but reflect, with infinite anxiety, on the hazard of my enterprise…”
This would be at the present day location of the Peace Canyon Dam.
From here on, his journey up the Peace is on a river that is destined to be no more. In our time, his path is deep under the water, at the bottoms of Dinosaur and Williston Lakes.
“The Indians...had informed us that at the first mountain, there was a considerable succession of rapids, cascades, and falls, which they never attempted to ascend; and where they always passed over land the length of a day’s march...a path appeared to ascend a hill, where there were several lodges, of last year’s construction. The account which had been given me of the rapids, was perfectly correct…”
“Near the foot of a mountain: between which, and a high ridge, the river flows in a channel of about 100 yards broad...in about a mile and a half I came to a part where the river washes the feet of lofty precipices…”
Portage Mountain.
“at the entrance of the narrow channel...and the canoe had been broken...but they had persevered with success, and having passed the carrying place, we proceeded ... when we crossed over and encamped on the opposite beach…
I estimate today’s encampment was somewhere near where the channel narrows, about 5 river miles downstream from the site of the W.A.C. Bennett Dam.
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